Surfing Ecuador

I hit the eternally overcast beaches of Montanita for some surfing. After a couple of hours of swollowing gallons on salt water, I finally got the hang of things. Lessons learned- if you weigh more than 150 punds, don't bother with the short board. If you have to use the long board, be prepared to get really tired after an hour of hauling the thing around. Quite a dilemna. What's the big metaphor for turning 30? You can learn new things all the time, its just painful and tiring. Who would have known that surfing tears the shit around of your belly and nipples even with the surfing shirt on?