The North

I made it to a village called Tongo outside of Bolgatanga. Tongo is in the savanah with fields of amber grass rising from the ruddy earth. Trees are scattered through the landscape, but each far enough from the other to be considered lone. Drier than dry, Tongo is the image of Africa the west has in its mind, minus the lions. It is so stunning, it is surreal. I stayed with Jesse, a Peace Corps volunteer who teaches art to deaf children. The children moan and hit each other for attention, which makes it easy to understand why the Ghanaians think they are idiots when they are not. Jesse hopes to teach them how to make a few craft so they can survive. Other than helping his students, Jesse hates his time in Ghana. He spends his nights drinking, playing cards and talking to two other volunteers who he seems to share a brain with. They finish each other's thoughts and are fascinated by each other's banal tales of shopping at the market and dealing with the locals. The presence of outsiders is almost jarring to their rhythm of isolation. Once his two friends leave Ghana, Jesse says he will leave.

I went to see a woman's community craft shop near the Burkina border (the tour was given by a man). I also went to see the chief of Tongo's house (17 wives) and the very gross shrine near his home (priest sitting in a pile of Guinea fowl carcasses). Some Ghanaian told me I was in the wrong Tro Tro just so he could get the front seat, which caused a huge fight between him and the Ghanaians who were looking out for me. It was kind of awkward.

At least the north had some okay pork skewers. I gulped down the fat and skin knowing that I needed the energy. Eating is chore here. Amazing.

Two days of bus transport followed. The Tongo to Bolga, Bolga to Tamale, Tamale to Kumasi, Kumasi to Accra, Accra to Nick's place. Hours of delays, hours of traffic, hours of road construction. It was terrible. I caught some sort of cold from the trip and had the worst headache I've had in 15 years. Last night, I walked into a field and collapsed practically weeping in pain. Other than that, it was really a beautiful night.